Business and Labor

Pasta la Vista – F.P. Ventrone Sparks the Providence Macaroni Riots

The summer of 1914 was a flash-point for the Italian immigrant families living in Providence, R.I. Squeezed on one side by an economic depression, they also began encountering unexpected increases in prices at the markets. The two forces set the stage for the macaroni riots of 1914.

macaroni riots

Photo of an Italian farm woman near Providence preparing spaghetti. U.S. Farm Security Administration.

Providence’s steadily growing Italian population provided tremendous opportunities for merchants with ties to the immigrants’ mother country. While English-speaking Irish immigrants had managed to insert themselves into the city’s Yankee-dominated political structure, Italian and French Canadian immigrants had also less influence on the city’s institutions.

More than 54,000 Italian immigrants arrived in Providence between 1898 and 1932. And that meant a boon to the city’s Federal Hill merchants. The Italian-Americans were distrustful of American retailers. American retailers did not understand Italian tastes – and many did not want to.

Scandalous Pasta

Italian merchants, meanwhile, thrived on the loyal customers they found among their neighbors. Questions about pasta had already been roiling Federal Hill, however.  In 1908, F.P. Ventrone had been accused of selling inferior American-made pasta labelled as Italian.

Macaroni Savoia Brand Gragano pasta was produced in Long Island, but labelled to look as if it came from Italy. It was not made with semolina derived from durum wheat, but was dyed yellow to make it appear that it was. The scandal would play out for years.

In 1914, the Italian community experienced a second shock to its kitchens. Pasta prices increased – a lot. The price of this dietary staple skyrocketed by as much as 60 percent.  Stores blamed the problem on shortages and price increases brought on by World War I breaking out in Europe.

The war was an ominous and frequent topic of conversation in the homes of Providence’s Italian families, and some suspected that stores were playing on that fear to raise prices.

Providence’s mayor commissioned a study that found no price gouging. The Labor Advocate newspaper – which aligned with the Socialist Industrial Workers of the World labor movement – declared the study a “whitewash.” The newspaper, in a not-so-subtle threat, predicted that the establishment of Frank P. Ventrone would soon “come to an abrupt end so far as Federal Hill is concerned.”

On August 29, protesters began putting action to the words. Italian-Americans had been protesting in prior years over their treatment by the Providence establishment. Encouraged by the I.W.W. (which figured in the famous 1912 Bread and Roses Strike in Massachusetts), Italians had marched through the streets of Little Italy supporting labor politicians and Italian pride.

The Macaroni Riots

Skirmishes with police were not unheard of at these events, but they were minor compared to the macaroni riots of 1914. On August 29, a rally at the corner of Atwells and Dean Streets turned raucous. The crowd began marching down Atwells Street toward Frank Ventrone’s store.

Ventrone had come to America from Italy in the 1880s and had prospered as the Italian population of the city surged. Dubbed the “Macaroni King,” he imported pasta, produced it and wholesaled it to other groceries. He was the most obvious target for the mob.

Rioters smashed Ventrone’s storefront windows. Looters stole pasta and scattered it in the street. As the macaroni riot grew, neighboring stores received similar damage, Pearlman’s Dry Goods, People’s Pharmacy and Cardegna’s barbershop all suffered broken windows.

Police skirmished with the rioters through the next day. Both sides dodged bottles, bricks and bullets.

Frank Ventrone had been vacationing at his summer home in Warwick when the violence broke out. Returning to the city, he tried to explain his side of the story. It was retail sellers of pasta who were raising prices dramatically, not his company, he said.

Ventrone then met with the leaders of the macaroni riots and agreed to lower his prices. A box of pasta that cost $1.60 was dropped to $1.40. And, he promised to make all his pasta available at wholesale prices to any customers who came to his store — not just retailers.

More Macaroni Riots

The macaroni riots bubbled over again on September 7 in response to a Labor Day rally that decried low wages and general inflation. Police, though, had prepared and moved quickly to defuse it.

Fourteen civilians received injuries in the macaroni riots, along with 10 police officers and firefighters. And more than $20,000 in damage occurred.

Eventually the economic recovery that grew out of the need for American goods in war-torn Europe would quell labor disturbances in New England. F.P. Ventrone’s would prosper through 1951.

Thanks to: Every Shout a Cannonball, The I.W.W. and Urban Disorders in Providence, Joseph W. Sullivan. This story about the macaroni riots was updated in 2018.

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